Words Félix Editorial
LIVING / DINING · THE BENEVOLENT ISSUE
Michelin-starred Chef Sujan Sarkar opened restaurant Indienne (pronounced “Indian”) in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. Indienne is the first Indian restaurant to win a Michelin star, where his Indian cuisine breaks stereotypes and he combines his European training with his homegrown flavors. Sarkar has revolutionized the fine dining experience for Indian cuisine.
Chef Sujan grew up in a small town in the eastern part of India, Kolkata, where he was surrounded by agriculture because of his father. Before Sarkar became a chef his dream was to be a fashion designer in India, but cooking turned out to be his destined path in life.
“I always wanted to be a designer. I go to art galleries, I always watch fashion very closely, I always spend my time looking into interior design. Also, I have my friends in India, they are top designers, amazing designers, young designers, but they’re doing their shows in Paris, London, shows in Milan, and they are great. So when I go to India, I just try to learn a little bit and understand.”
The Designer Behind the Chef
Sarkar has been cooking for 23 years, and was named The Times of India’s “Chef of the Year” and Elite Magazine’s “International Chef of the Year” in 2016. He has cooked in kitchens all over the globe from London, Delhi, and Bombay, before moving on to open TRESIND in Dubai, EK Bar in New Delhi, and Baar Baar in New York City and now LA.
“When I was in London, I wasn’t cooking Indian food, I was doing modern European and French food. So I always wanted to combine those techniques, not cuisine, but the French technique and understanding of French cuisine into Indian food. Indian food is very flavorful, you know, it’s very complex cuisine, but how can we present that cuisine in a much more modern way — and for the people not only living in Chicago, but nationwide and later on worldwide as well.”
There are many aspects that make Indeinne so unique, the flavors are all Indian, the technique, the presentation, the thought process, how the business is run, the wine pairing, and the people all involved in the creation. Sarkar calls his cuisine “affordable luxury.” When he started Indinne, he had a tasting menu and a la carte menu, but in January he switched to only tasting menus.
“I never expected within one year we’ll be able to successfully turn a restaurant into a tasting menu restaurant, and still will not compromise the number of covers, not compromise the quality, and so I think that’s a great surprise this year, a pleasant surprise.”
There is something for everyone at Indienne with the restaurant offering two tasting menus: vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Sarkar prides himself on making sure that anyone with dietary restrictions can eat at Indienne. He wants to make sure that everyone who steps foot into his restaurant feels comfortable.
“I think the food should be creatively driven, not only the price tag. I always say food, what you cannot cook at home, as simple as that. If you can cook my food at home then you don’t need me, to be very honest. I always say that. Of course, it’s not all about food when you come to a restaurant. It is backed by hospitality, you know, the back quality service and in all these things should come together, right? How we welcome you is there, how we take you through the journey.”
When Sarkar was living in London he was part of one of the best cocktail bars and then in 2015, opened the first Indian cocktail bar in New Delhi, EK Bar. For Indienne, he worked with his mixologist Maverick, so their cocktails could share Sarkar’s culinary journey. Sarkar has just released his new cocktail menu on June 18th, 2024.
A New Culinary Language
“So I started in Calcutta, from there I worked in Bombay, then, you know, grew up from there, I moved to London, then back in India, in New Delhi, then in Dubai, then San Francisco, that’s all the cities and then we picked up elements from there. Our cocktail menu is going to be available until this month. We’re going to roll out our new cocktail menu, which is gonna be based on a zero-waste philosophy. We throw a lot of things away so that we’re turning them into cocktails. A lot of savory cocktails that you’ll see in our new menu.”
This new cocktail menu consists of Spirited and Free-Spirit drinks. His Spirited drinks are named after fruit and fish like Seabass, Passionfruit, Ancho, Strawberry and more. You can also order the Gin Trolley which is Indiennes’s tableside gin and tonic trolley service, inspired by the gin culture in London.
Sarkar was very intentional when it came to the interior design of Indienne. When he first saw the space it was very dark and he wanted to bring life back into the restaurant. His goal was to make it “new, open, and very refreshing.” He based his color palette on the festival of color from India called Holi.
“So the primary colors of Holi festival are green and pink. So in the restaurant, you have different hues of pink and green. And on the wall, you will see paintings done by local artists. It’s more like you are throwing color, during Holi we throw colors on people, that’s what it is. And so that kind of different color coming together in those are the canvas on the wall.”
Upon entering the front door, which Sarkar sourced from a New York auction house and restored, guests will find a modern dining room that feels understated yet elegant. Sarkar chose a green ceiling, white walls, and pink velvet booths, and artwork depicting Holi – created by Chicago-based artist Ken Andjulis – add pops of color and excitement throughout the space. Additional design details include huge windows, letting in natural light into the space and a view of the hustling city life for guests. The design is simple with the cuisine being the true art form.
Indienne is the first Indian fine dining cuisine to win a Michelin star from the Michelin Guide. But Sarkar wasn’t surprised when he saw his Chicago restaurant in the Michelin Guide. What continues to inspire him is seeing any of his restaurants on a “top list in America” or being a finalist for the James Beards Awards. He and his team are currently working for their second star and are constantly improving his service for his guests.
“But the decision and the strategy we knew we will get a Michelin star because it’s nothing new to me. Because if we do right, if we are consistent, if we are doing a fine dining, which is that exciting — and I always take my guest feedback — and I understand we know that we are getting it because I know what you receive is correct or not. So it wasn’t surprising at all, to be honest.”
With the pressures of owning a restaurant full-time, it’s very important for Sarkar that Indienne is a “people-focused restaurant.”
“We always talk about food, but I want to create a business which is sustainable. Not in terms of what we offer, but in terms of the people that are working there. In terms of how I see that f&b, that food and beverage, or restaurant industry should evolve in America. Any accolade is great for a restaurant, but as I said the restaurant should be self-sustainable, you should work with a team who are as motivated and energetic as you are, and everything should be transparent, and our food should be affordable. It should be backed by creativity and it should be exciting.”
